Pre – perm Consultation and Preparation
Understanding the Hair’s Condition
Assessing Damage: Before perming, carefully examine the hair for any signs of damage. Look for split ends, breakage, or areas of excessive dryness. If the hair is damaged, it may be more prone to further damage during the perming process. For example, if there are a lot of split ends, it’s advisable to trim them before proceeding.
Hair History: Ask the client about previous chemical treatments, such as relaxers or previous perms. If the hair has been recently treated with chemicals, it may need more time to recover before being permed again. Overlapping chemical processes can cause severe damage.
Choosing the Right Perm Solution
Type of Perm: There are different types of perms available, including alkaline perms and acid perms. Alkaline perms are generally stronger and work well for very resistant hair. However, they can be more drying. Acid perms are milder and better for hair that is more fragile or has some damage. For black women’s hair, which can be quite strong, an alkaline perm might be suitable in some cases, but if the hair is damaged or processed, an acid perm could be a better option.
Brand and Quality: Select a high – quality perm solution from a reputable brand. Look for products that are specifically formulated for black hair or have good reviews for use on curly, coarse hair. The quality of the perm solution can greatly affect the outcome and the health of the hair.
Preparing the Hair
Washing: Wash the hair with a clarifying shampoo. This helps to remove any product buildup, oils, or dirt from the hair.Make sure to rinse thoroughly. However, avoid over – scrubbing the scalp as this can cause irritation.
Drying: Gently towel – dry the hair or use a blow – dryer on a low – heat setting. The hair should be damp but not dripping wet when you start the perming process.
The Perming Process
Sectioning the Hair
Dividing into Manageable Sections: Start by dividing the hair into four to six large sections. Use hair clips to hold each section in place. This makes it easier to work with the hair and ensures that the perm solution is applied evenly. For example, you can create a part down the middle of the head from the front to the back, and then divide each side into two or three sections.
Sub – sectioning: For each large section, further divide it into smaller sub – sections, about 1 – 2 inches wide. This depends on the thickness of the hair. Thicker hair may require smaller sub – sections for better coverage.
Applying the Perm Solution
Protecting the Scalp: Before applying the perm solution, apply a protective cream or petroleum jelly along the hairline and on the scalp. This helps to prevent the perm solution from irritating the skin.
Even Application: Using a perm applicator bottle or a brush, apply the perm solution evenly to each sub – section of hair, starting from the roots and working towards the ends. Make sure to saturate the hair completely but avoid dripping. Pay attention to the ends of the hair as they are often the most porous and can absorb more solution.
Processing Time: The processing time varies depending on the type of perm solution, the hair’s texture, and the desired curl strength. Follow the instructions provided with the perm solution. Generally, it can range from 10 to 30 minutes. Check the hair regularly during the processing time to see if the curls are forming as expected. You can do a test curl by wrapping a small section of hair around a perm rod and observing the result.
Wrapping the Hair
Selecting the Right Perm Rods: Choose perm rods that are appropriate for the desired curl size. Smaller rods will create tighter curls, while larger rods will result in looser curls. For black women’s hair, which often has a natural tight curl pattern, you may choose a rod size that will enhance or modify the existing curl. For example, if the goal is to create more defined, medium – sized curls, select medium – sized perm rods.
Wrapping Technique: Starting at the ends of the hair, wrap each sub – section around a perm rod. Make sure the hair is smooth and evenly distributed on the rod. Roll the rod up towards the roots. Secure the rod in place with a rubber band or clip provided with the perm kit. When wrapping, be careful not to pull the hair too tightly as this can cause breakage.
Neutralizing the Perm
Rinsing the Perm Solution
Thorough Rinsing: After the processing time is complete, rinse the perm solution out of the hair thoroughly with warm water. Make sure to remove all the solution from the hair and the perm rods. Rinsing is important to stop the chemical action of the perm solution.
Checking for Residual Solution: While rinsing, check to make sure there is no perm solution left on the hair. You can feel the hair to make sure it doesn’t feel slippery, which could indicate the presence of residual solution.
Applying the Neutralizer
Even Distribution: Apply the neutralizer evenly to the hair while it is still wrapped on the perm rods. The neutralizer helps to set the new curl pattern and restore the hair’s pH balance. Use an applicator bottle or a brush to apply the neutralizer, making sure to cover all the hair on each rod.
Processing the Neutralizer: Let the neutralizer sit on the hair for the recommended time, usually about 5 – 10 minutes.During this time, the chemical reaction in the hair is completed, and the new curl structure is stabilized.
Post – perm Care
Rinsing and Removing the Rods
Final Rinsing: After the neutralizer has processed, rinse the hair again thoroughly with warm water. Make sure to remove all the neutralizer from the hair.
Removing the Rods: Gently remove the perm rods from the hair. Unwind the hair from the rods carefully to avoid disturbing the new curl pattern.
Conditioning and Styling
Deep Conditioning: Apply a deep – conditioning treatment to the hair. This helps to restore moisture to the hair, which can be lost during the perming process. Leave the conditioner on for 10 – 15 minutes and then rinse thoroughly.
Styling: You can style the permed hair as desired. Use a wide – toothed comb or your fingers to gently separate the curls.
Apply a curl – enhancing product or a light – hold styling gel to define the curls. Avoid using heavy products that can weigh the hair down or cause buildup.
Conclusion
Perming a black woman’s hair is a complex but rewarding process. By carefully assessing the hair’s condition, choosing the right products, and following the proper perming and post – perm care steps, you can achieve beautiful, long – lasting curls. It’s important to always prioritize the health of the hair to ensure that the perm not only looks great but also maintains the hair’s strength and vitality. With experience and attention to detail, you can master the art of perming black hair and provide clients with a satisfying result.
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