Cutting curly hair requires a different approach than straight hair, especially when adding long layers. Curly hair has a natural spring and movement that can make cutting tricky, but when done correctly, long layers can enhance the curls’ shape and volume. In this article, we’ll break down the steps to cutting long layers on curly hair, focusing on maintaining the hair’s texture and natural beauty while avoiding common mistakes.
Why Long Layers Work Well on Curly Hair
Long layers are a go-to for curly hair because they enhance the natural curl pattern, add movement, and reduce bulk without losing length. Layering distributes the weight of the curls evenly, allowing them to bounce and form beautifully. Additionally, long layers offer a low-maintenance option that works with the curl’s natural shape rather than against it.
Key Considerations Before You Start
When cutting curly hair, a few key factors should guide your approach:
Curl pattern: Different curl types (loose waves, tight curls, coils) will react differently to layers. Looser curls will see more defined layers, while tighter curls may experience more shrinkage.
Shrinkage: Curly hair appears longer when wet and shortens as it dries. Always account for shrinkage when deciding the length of the layers.
Hair density: Thick, curly hair will require different techniques than finer curly hair, especially when it comes to managing bulk.
Hair health: Always assess the hair’s condition. Dry or damaged hair may require treatment before cutting to ensure the best results.
Now, let’s dive into the detailed steps for cutting long layers on curly hair.
Step 1: Consult with Your Client
Before you even pick up the scissors, it’s essential to have a detailed consultation with your client. Curly hair is unique to every individual, and it’s important to understand their hair goals, curl pattern, and styling preferences. Ask your client how they typically style their hair, if they wear it natural, and what kind of maintenance they are comfortable with.
Discuss the length:
Understand how short or long your client wants their hair to be after cutting.
Determine the layering goal:
Some clients may want subtle, soft layers, while others may want more defined, voluminous layers.
This conversation will guide the cutting process and ensure the client is satisfied with the final result.
Step 2: Cut Curly Hair Dry for Best Results
Curly hair is best cut dry to see how each curl behaves in its natural state. Wet cutting can lead to surprises once the hair dries, as curls spring back and take up more space. Cutting dry allows you to see the hair’s true length, texture, and how the layers will fall.
Natural state is key:
Allow your client to come with their hair styled naturally. If necessary, you can refresh the curls with a spray bottle or light styling products.
No brushing or combing:
Avoid brushing out curls before cutting, as this can alter the natural shape and pattern of the hair.
Start by sectioning the hair based on the client’s curl pattern and density. This ensures you can focus on one section at a time without disrupting the overall shape.
Step 3: Section the Hair for Precision
Proper sectioning is vital when cutting layers into curly hair. Working with small sections will give you more control and precision.
Top section (Crown):
Clip this section away for now. This will be the last area you cut since it determines the overall shape of the haircut.
Back section (Nape):
Start cutting from the nape upwards. The bottom layers will serve as the foundation for the haircut.
Sides and front:
After the back is done, move on to the sides and front. Keep in mind that the hair around the face will frame the client’s features, so extra care is needed here.
By working in small sections, you maintain control over the final shape of the haircut and ensure that the layers are even.
Step 4: Cut the First Layer at the Nape
Begin at the nape of the neck and cut the first long layer. This bottom layer will serve as a guide for the rest of the haircut. Here’s how to do it:
Take a small section at the nape:
Lift the hair at a 90-degree angle from the scalp and point cut into the ends to create soft, feathered edges.
Cut to the desired length:
Keep in mind that this layer will be the longest, as the goal is long layers. The exact length will depend on the client’s preference and how much length they want to keep.
Check the curl’s natural bounce:
After cutting, gently shake the curls to see how they spring back. This will help you adjust the length if necessary.
Step 5: Work Your Way Up, Layer by Layer
Once you’ve established the first layer, continue working upward, cutting layers section by section. Remember that the layers should gradually get shorter as you move towards the top of the head.
Lift each section:
For each new layer, lift the hair and cut at a slight angle to blend the layers seamlessly. Avoid harsh, straight cuts, as these can disrupt the natural curl flow.
Blend the layers:
To avoid a choppy look, use point cutting or slide cutting techniques to create a smooth transition between layers. This will also add softness to the haircut, allowing the curls to move freely.
Always take a step back after each section to ensure that the shape is balanced and even.
Step 6: Cut the Top Section and Face-Framing Layers
The top section (crown) and face-framing layers are the most visible parts of the haircut, so extra attention is required.
Face-framing layers:
To add shape and dimension, create long, soft layers that frame the face. Hold the hair at a slight diagonal and cut small, angled pieces. This will prevent a blunt or harsh line around the face.
Crown area:
The crown is the area that will show the most volume and movement. Cut the top layers slightly shorter than the rest of the hair to create volume and bounce, but be careful not to go too short, as this can lead to shrinkage.
Check your work frequently to make sure the layers are even and that the curls are shaping nicely.
SEE ALSO: How to Curl Extensions with a Flat Iron: A Step-by-Step Guide
Step 7: Define and Personalize the Cut
Once all the layers are cut, it’s time to personalize the haircut. This is where you can add texture, remove bulk, or adjust the shape to suit the client’s specific curl pattern.
Remove bulk (if needed):
For clients with very thick hair, you may need to thin out some sections to reduce weight. Use thinning shears sparingly to avoid losing too much volume.
Enhance curl definition:
If some curls need more shape, twist cut individual curls. Take a curl, twist it, and point cut into the ends to define its shape without making it too blunt.
Check the overall shape:
After cutting, check the overall silhouette of the haircut. Ensure the layers flow smoothly from the top to the bottom, with no harsh lines or uneven sections.
Step 8: Style and Set the Cut
Once the cutting is complete, it’s time to style the hair and reveal the final result.
Apply curl-enhancing products:
Use a lightweight leave-in conditioner or curl cream to enhance the curls’ natural shape.
Diffuse or air-dry:
If time permits, allow the hair to air-dry naturally. Alternatively, use a diffuser attachment to dry the curls without causing frizz. Always use a low heat setting to protect the curls.
Final adjustments:
Once the hair is dry, check for any stray curls or uneven layers that may need trimming. Dry curls will behave differently from wet curls, so final touch-ups are sometimes necessary.
Step 9: Educate the Client on Aftercare
Once the haircut is complete, provide your client with some tips for maintaining their new layered haircut. Curly hair requires special care to keep the layers looking fresh and defined.
Moisture is key:
Encourage your client to use hydrating shampoos, conditioners, and leave-in treatments to keep their curls hydrated and frizz-free.
Use a wide-tooth comb or fingers:
When detangling curly hair, recommend using a wide-tooth comb or their fingers to avoid disrupting the curl pattern.
Refresh the curls between washes:
Suggest products like curl-refreshing sprays or lightweight styling creams to revitalize curls between washes.
Conclusion
Cutting long layers on curly hair is a detailed process that requires an understanding of the hair’s natural movement, texture, and bounce. By following these steps—starting with a consultation, cutting dry, layering carefully, and finishing with personalized touches—you can create a stunning haircut that enhances your client’s curls. With the right techniques, long layers can add volume, shape, and dimension to any curly hairstyle, giving your clients a cut they’ll love and feel confident wearing.
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