L’Oréal is pioneering inclusive haircare by delving into the science behind different hair types. Scientific American Custom Media recently interviewed Sanford Browne, President of Research and Innovation at L’Oréal North America, and Janet Wangari-Olivero, Assistant Vice President of Advanced Research at L’Oréal North America, to discuss their efforts.
Megan Hall: Sanford and Janet, thank you for joining me today.
Sanford Browne: Great to be here.
Janet Wangari-Olivero: Thank you for having us.
Megan Hall: Sanford, can you explain the role of research at L’Oréal and its focus on diversity?
Sanford Browne: L’Oréal was founded by a chemist 115 years ago, and science has been at our core ever since. We aim to understand consumers’ unique needs, particularly in a diverse society. Our goal is to create personalized beauty solutions that go beyond the ordinary.
Megan Hall: How do you ensure your research is culturally inclusive?
Sanford Browne: Beauty is a social need that reflects society. As the U.S. becomes more diverse, it’s crucial to understand both the similarities and differences among consumers. We invest heavily in understanding the fundamentals of skin, scalp, and hair to create inclusive beauty solutions.
Megan Hall: Janet, can you explain the differences between curly and straight hair?
Janet Wangari-Olivero: Both curly and straight hair share the same amino acids, but they differ in structure. Curly hair has a C-like morphology and a sandwich-like keratin structure, whereas straight hair resembles a rice grain with a donut-like keratin arrangement. These structural differences lead to unique needs for curly hair.
Megan Hall: What types of curly hair are there?
Janet Wangari-Olivero: Curly hair ranges from loose waves to tight curls, highlighting its broad diversity.
Megan Hall: What issues arise from a lack of proper training in curly hair care?
Janet Wangari-Olivero: Consumers with curly hair often experience “hair trauma” from stylists who lack the necessary skills. Incorrect styling and products can lead to damage and breakage. Many consumers with textured hair struggle to find trained professionals. Our Texture of Change initiative aims to transform this by providing equitable access to textured hair education.
Megan Hall: What is L’Oréal doing to understand different hair types?
Janet Wangari-Olivero: In 2021, we launched a global typology study involving 15,000 consumers across seven countries. We moved away from ethnic classifications to a more precise typological scale, helping us better meet consumers’ needs. We’re particularly focusing on innovating for curly type IV and very curly type V hair.
Megan Hall: How does this research influence product design?
Janet Wangari-Olivero: We study the impact of external factors like UV exposure, climate, pollution, and mechanical stress on hair. Partnering with Verily, we’re collecting data to create more personalized products. We also consider internal factors like age, sex, and lifestyle, which affect hair health.
Megan Hall: Can you tell us about your research on growing hair in the lab?
Janet Wangari-Olivero: We’re collaborating with Professor Karl Koehler at Harvard Medical School to grow hair from cells of highly pigmented individuals. This breakthrough will help us create inclusive, off-the-shelf hair regeneration products.
Megan Hall: Sanford, how does this research help L’Oréal embrace hair diversity globally?
Sanford Browne: By 2030, 40% of the world’s population will have curly hair. We’re investing in inclusivity to bring the best products to consumers, allowing them to express their true beauty confidently.
Megan Hall: What will the haircare industry look like in 10 years if your work succeeds?
Sanford Browne: We already have successful brands, but we aim to push the boundaries of science. Our Center of Excellence on Inclusivity will lead the way, ensuring that beauty is accessible and celebrated in all its forms.
Megan Hall: How will people with curly hair feel about their options?
Sanford Browne: They should feel pride and confidence in finding the best solutions. My wife has curly hair, and finding the right products and stylists can be challenging. We’re committed to making a difference with better education for stylists and innovative products.
Megan Hall: Janet, any final thoughts?
Janet Wangari-Olivero: At L’Oréal, we are leaders and changemakers in beauty, driving inclusivity and diversity into everyday realities. Beauty is about expression and individuality.
Sanford Browne: We aim to be pioneers in combining breakthrough science with consumers’ aspirations, helping everyone celebrate their natural beauty.
Megan Hall: Thank you, Sanford and Janet, for joining me.
Sanford Browne: Thank you.
Janet Wangari-Olivero: Thank you.
Sanford Browne is the President of Research and Innovation for L’Oréal North America. Janet Wangari-Olivero is the Assistant Vice President of Advanced Research at L’Oréal North America. For over 110 years, L’Oréal has been fulfilling the beauty aspirations of consumers worldwide.
This podcast was produced by Scientific American Custom Media and supported by L’Oréal.
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