Perming hair has become a popular styling choice among black men, allowing them to achieve a variety of textured and curly looks. It offers an opportunity to break away from traditional short, natural hairstyles and experiment with different aesthetics. However, the process of perming black hair requires careful consideration and proper execution to ensure healthy and stylish results. In this article, we will explore the step-by-step process of how black men can perm their hair, along with essential tips and precautions.
Understanding the Basics of a Perm
A perm, short for permanent wave, chemically alters the hair’s structure to create curls or waves that last for an extended period. For black men’s hair, which is often naturally coarser and has a different texture compared to other hair types, the perming process needs to be adjusted accordingly.
Types of Perms:
There are different types of perms available. The most common one is the alkaline perm, which uses ammonium thioglycolate as the active ingredient. This type is known for creating strong, defined curls. However, it can be more drying and harsh on the hair. Another option is the acid perm, which uses glyceryl monothioglycolate. Acid perms are generally milder and better suited for hair that is already damaged or more sensitive. Black men may choose the type of perm based on their desired curl pattern and the current condition of their hair.
Preparing for the Perm
Proper preparation is crucial to achieve the best results and minimize potential damage.
Hair Health Assessment:
Before perming, it is essential to assess the health of the hair. If the hair is severely damaged from previous chemical treatments, excessive heat styling, or neglect, it may not be suitable for a perm. In such cases, it is advisable to focus on hair repair and conditioning first. Signs of damaged hair include excessive breakage, dryness, and a lack of elasticity.
Washing and Conditioning:
Wash the hair thoroughly a day or two before the perm. Use a mild shampoo that is suitable for black hair and rinse well.Avoid using heavy conditioners or leave-in products that could create a barrier and prevent the perm solution from penetrating evenly. However, do not skip conditioning entirely, as some moisture is needed to keep the hair from becoming overly brittle during the perming process. A light conditioner applied to the mid-lengths and ends can be beneficial.
Length and Style Consideration:
Decide on the desired length and style. Longer hair may require more perm solution and a longer processing time. If you have a specific style in mind, such as loose waves or tight curls, communicate this clearly with the stylist or plan your DIY perm accordingly. Trim any split ends or damaged portions of the hair to ensure a more even perm result.
The Perming Process
The actual perming process involves several steps and requires careful attention to detail.
Sectioning the Hair:
Divide the hair into small, manageable sections. Use clips or hair ties to keep the sections separate. This allows for even application of the perm solution and ensures that all parts of the hair are treated uniformly. Start from the back of the head and work your way forward, taking sections that are about 1 – 2 inches wide, depending on the thickness of the hair.
Applying the Perm Solution:
Wear gloves to protect your hands. Apply the perm solution evenly to each section of hair, starting from the roots and working down to the ends. Make sure the hair is saturated with the solution but not dripping. Use a comb or your fingers to distribute the solution thoroughly. The processing time will vary depending on the type of perm, the strength of the solution, and the desired curl result. Generally, it can range from 10 – 30 minutes. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully and check the hair’s progress regularly. The hair should start to feel softer and more pliable as the perm takes effect.
Rinsing the Perm Solution:
Once the processing time is complete, rinse the perm solution out thoroughly with warm water. Make sure all traces of the solution are removed. This step is crucial as any remaining perm solution can continue to process the hair and cause over-processing and damage.
Applying the Neutralizer:
After rinsing, apply the neutralizer. The neutralizer helps to set the new curl pattern and restore the hair’s pH balance. Apply it evenly to all the hair, following the same sectioning process as before. Leave the neutralizer on for the recommended time, usually around 5 – 10 minutes. Then, rinse it out completely with cool water. The cool water helps to close the hair cuticles and lock in the new curl shape.
Post-Perm Care
Taking care of the permed hair after the process is essential to maintain its health and appearance.
Moisturizing and Conditioning:
Use a deep conditioning treatment at least once a week. Look for conditioners that are formulated for permed or chemically treated hair. These conditioners often contain ingredients like keratin, shea butter, and oils that help to restore moisture and strengthen the hair. Apply the conditioner generously to the hair, focusing on the mid-lengths and ends. Leave it on for 20 – 30 minutes and then rinse thoroughly. You can also use leave-in conditioners or hair oils to keep the hair hydrated between washes.
Gentle Washing:
Wash the permed hair with a sulfate-free shampoo. Sulfates can strip the hair of its natural oils and cause dryness and frizz. Gently massage the shampoo into the scalp and work it through the hair, but avoid rough scrubbing or tangling the curls. Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water. Limit washing to 2 – 3 times a week to prevent over-washing and drying out the hair.
Styling with Care:
When styling the permed hair, use a wide-toothed comb or your fingers to detangle. Avoid using brushes, especially on wet hair, as they can cause breakage. Apply a styling product like a curl-defining cream or gel to enhance and hold the curls. Use a diffuser attachment on a low heat setting when blow-drying to minimize frizz and maintain the curl shape. Avoid using excessive heat from flat irons or curling irons, and if you must use them, apply a heat protectant spray first.
Conclusion
Perming black men’s hair can be a great way to achieve a new and stylish look. However, it is a chemical process that requires careful consideration and proper aftercare. By understanding the different types of perms, preparing the hair adequately, following the perming process precisely, and taking good care of the permed hair, black men can enjoy healthy, beautiful curls that enhance their overall appearance. It is also advisable to consult a professional stylist, especially if you are new to the perming process, to ensure the best results and minimize the risk of damage. With the right approach, perming can open up a world of styling possibilities and allow black men to express their individuality and style.