Understanding the Basics of Perming Curly Hair
What is a Perm?
Types of Perm Solutions
Alkaline Perms: These are stronger and work well for most hair types. They are often used for creating more defined curls.
However, they can be harsher on the hair, especially if it’s already damaged. Alkaline perms have a higher pH level, which opens the hair cuticle more aggressively to allow the solution to penetrate deeply. This can lead to dryness and potential damage if not managed properly.
Acid Perms: Acid perms are gentler and have a lower pH. They are better suited for fine or damaged hair. While they may not create as strong or long – lasting curls as alkaline perms, they are less likely to cause excessive damage. For curly – haired women with hair that is prone to breakage or dryness, acid perms can be a good option.
Ammonia – free Perms: These are becoming more popular as they are considered less damaging. They use alternative chemicals to achieve the perm effect without the harshness of ammonia. Ammonia – free perms are a great choice for those who want to maintain the health of their curly hair while still getting a new look.
Reasons Women with Curly Hair Choose to Perm
Curl Enhancement
Adding Definition: Many women with naturally curly hair have curls that can be frizzy or lack definition. A perm can be used to enhance the existing curl pattern, making the curls more uniform and bouncy. For example, if a woman has loose, wavy curls, a perm can help tighten and define them, giving a more polished appearance.
Changing Curl Size: Some women may want to change the size of their curls. A perm can be used to make the curls either tighter or looser, depending on the size of the perm rods used. Larger rods will create looser waves, while smaller rods will produce tighter curls. This allows for a customized look based on personal preference.
Correcting Curl Issues
Frizz Control: Curly hair is often prone to frizz, which can be a frustrating problem. A perm can help to control frizz by restructuring the hair in a more organized way. The chemical process can smooth the hair cuticle to some extent, reducing the appearance of frizz and making the hair more manageable.
Rebalancing Uneven Curls: In some cases, women may have uneven curls, where some sections of the hair are curlier than others. A perm can be used to even out the curl pattern, creating a more consistent look throughout the hair.
Changing the Overall Look
New Style: Women may simply want a new look. A perm can transform their curly hair into a different style, such as creating more voluminous curls or a more retro – inspired curly look. It can be a way to update their appearance and express their individuality.
The Perming Process for Curly Hair
Preparation
Hair Analysis: Before perming, a hair professional will analyze the hair’s current condition, including its texture, thickness, and any existing damage. This helps determine the appropriate perm solution and technique. For example, if the hair is very dry, the stylist may choose a more moisturizing perm solution or recommend pre – treatment to improve the hair’s condition.
Consultation: A thorough consultation with the client is essential. The stylist will discuss the desired outcome, lifestyle factors (such as how much time the client has for hair maintenance), and any concerns the client may have. This communication ensures that both the client and the stylist are on the same page regarding the perm results.
Pre – treatment: Depending on the hair’s condition, pre – treatment may be necessary. This could involve applying a deep – conditioning treatment to strengthen the hair or using a protein – rich product to repair any damage. Pre – treatment helps to prepare the hair for the perm process and minimize potential damage.
The Perming Procedure
Sectioning the Hair: The hair is carefully sectioned to ensure even application of the perm solution. This is especially important for curly hair, as the curls can make it more challenging to distribute the solution evenly. Each section is then further divided into smaller sub – sections for wrapping around the perm rods.
Applying the Perm Solution: The chosen perm solution is applied to the hair, starting from the ends and working up to the roots. The solution is left on for a specific amount of time, which varies depending on the hair type and the desired curl strength. The stylist will monitor the process closely to ensure the solution doesn’t over – process the hair.
Wrapping the Hair on Perm Rods: After the perm solution has been applied, the hair is wrapped around perm rods. The size and type of rods are selected based on the desired curl pattern. For curly hair, the stylist may choose to use different rod sizes in different areas to create a more natural – looking result. The hair is wrapped neatly and securely around the rods to ensure the curls form evenly.
Processing and Neutralizing: Once the hair is wrapped, it is left to process for a set period. After processing, a neutralizing solution is applied to stop the chemical action of the perm solution and reform the hair’s bonds in the new curly shape. This step is crucial for setting the curls and ensuring their longevity.
Aftercare for Permed Curly Hair
Washing and Conditioning
Initial Waiting Period: After a perm, it’s important not to wash the hair for at least 48 hours. This allows the new curl pattern to set properly. During this time, avoid getting the hair wet as much as possible.
Gentle Shampoo and Conditioner: When it’s time to wash the hair, use a sulfate – free shampoo that is formulated for permed or curly hair. Sulfates can strip the hair of its natural oils and damage the curls. A good conditioner should be applied, focusing on the ends of the hair, which are often the driest. Leave – in conditioners can also be beneficial for added moisture and curl definition.
Drying and Styling
Air – drying: Air – drying is the gentlest option for permed curly hair. It allows the curls to form naturally without the heat damage that can come from blow – drying. If air – drying, gently squeeze out excess water with a towel (avoid rubbing) and let the hair dry on its own.
Using a Diffuser: If blow – drying is preferred, use a diffuser attachment. Set the blow – dryer to a low – heat setting and hold the diffuser close to the hair. Gently lift and shape the curls with the diffuser to enhance their volume and definition.
Styling Products: Use curl – enhancing products such as creams, mousses, or gels. These can be applied to damp hair to define the curls and add hold. Avoid using too much product, as it can make the hair look greasy or weighed down. A small amount of oil can be used to add shine and control frizz.
Maintenance and Long – term Care
Regular Trims: To keep the perm looking its best, regular trims are necessary. Trimming the ends of the hair every 6 – 8 weeks helps to remove split ends, which can make the hair look frizzy and affect the overall curl quality.
Avoiding Heat and Chemical Damage: Limit the use of heat – styling tools such as straighteners or curling irons, as they can further damage the permed hair. Also, avoid additional chemical treatments like coloring or highlighting too soon after a perm, as this can weaken the hair. If heat – styling or chemical treatments are unavoidable, use a heat protectant spray or consult a professional.
Conclusion
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