Cutting a graduated bob is a task that requires precision and attention to detail. This classic hairstyle is loved for its versatility and timeless elegance. The graduated bob, characterized by its shorter back and longer front, adds volume and movement to the hair, making it a favorite among hairstylists and clients alike. In this article, I will guide you through the process of cutting a graduated bob step by step.
How to Cut a Graduated Bob Step by Step?
1. Prepare Your Tools and Workstation
Before you begin, it’s crucial to have all your tools ready and your workstation organized. Essential tools for cutting a graduated bob include:
Sharp haircutting scissors
Hair clippers (optional, for undercutting)
Sectioning clips
A fine-tooth comb
A spray bottle with water
A hair dryer
A round brush
A cape or towel to protect the client’s clothes
Ensure your tools are clean and in good working condition. Position your client comfortably in the chair, ensuring they are sitting upright with their head in a neutral position. This will help you achieve an even cut.
2. Section the Hair
Sectioning the hair is a critical step in cutting a graduated bob. It helps in managing the hair and ensures that the cut is even and precise.
Start by parting the hair down the middle from the front hairline to the nape of the neck.
Then, create a horizontal parting from ear to ear, dividing the hair into four sections: two in the front and two in the back.
Clip each section securely to keep them separate and manageable.
For a more precise cut, you may further divide the back sections horizontally into upper and lower sections. This is particularly helpful for thick or dense hair.
3. Start Cutting at the Nape
The nape is the foundation of the graduated bob. Begin cutting at the nape to set the length and angle for the rest of the haircut.
Release the lower section of the back and comb it down straight.
Decide on the desired length of the bob at the nape. This is usually just above the shoulders or at the base of the neck.
Hold the hair at a 45-degree angle to create a graduated effect and cut along the desired length.
Work your way from the center of the nape to the right side, and then from the center to the left side, ensuring the cut is even.
Tip: Always check the symmetry of the cut by comparing the lengths on both sides as you go along.
4. Create the Graduation
Graduation is the key characteristic of this bob style. It’s achieved by cutting the hair at an angle, which gradually increases the length from the back towards the front.
Release the upper section of the back and comb it down.
Take a small subsection of hair and hold it at a 45-degree angle.
Cut along the guideline established by the nape section, maintaining the angle.
Continue taking subsections, working your way upwards and around the head, always cutting at the same angle to ensure a consistent graduation.
As you reach the crown, you may slightly increase the angle to add more graduation and volume.
Tip: Regularly check the angle and length to maintain the consistency of the graduation.
5. Cut the Sides
The sides of the graduated bob should blend seamlessly with the back. This requires careful attention to the angle and length as you move from the back towards the front.
Release one of the front sections and comb it down.
Take a small subsection near the ear and hold it at a 45-degree angle.
Cut the hair to match the length and angle of the hair at the back.
Continue taking subsections, working towards the front hairline.
Gradually increase the length as you move forward to create the classic longer front of the graduated bob.
Repeat the same process on the other side, ensuring both sides are symmetrical.
Tip: Use the previously cut sections as a guide to maintain consistency in length and angle.
6. Refine the Shape
Once the basic shape of the graduated bob is established, it’s time to refine the cut. This involves checking for uneven sections and making adjustments to perfect the shape.
Comb through the hair to ensure it falls naturally.
Check the balance of the cut by comparing the lengths on both sides and the graduation from back to front.
If necessary, use point cutting or slide cutting techniques to soften any harsh lines or blend layers more smoothly.
For a more dramatic effect, you can undercut the nape area using clippers or scissors, creating a sharper graduation.
7. Add Layers (Optional)
Adding layers to a graduated bob can enhance the movement and texture of the hairstyle. This step is optional and depends on the client’s preference and hair type.
To add layers, take vertical sections of hair and cut them at an angle to remove some weight and create more movement.
Start at the crown and work your way down, always cutting at an angle that complements the graduation.
Ensure that the layers blend seamlessly with the rest of the haircut.
Tip: Be conservative when adding layers, as too many layers can disrupt the clean lines of the graduated bob.
SEE ALSO: 26 Easy to Style Bob Haircuts
8. Texturize the Hair
Texturizing the hair can add dimension and remove bulk, giving the graduated bob a more modern and airy feel. There are several techniques you can use to texturize the hair.
Use thinning shears to remove bulk from thick hair, especially in the nape and crown areas.
For a more piecey and textured look, you can use a razor to gently thin out the ends.
Another option is point cutting, where you cut into the hair at an angle to create soft, feathered ends.
Tip: Texturize conservatively, especially on fine hair, to avoid making the hair look too thin.
9. Style the Graduated Bob
Styling is the final step in creating a polished graduated bob. How you style the hair can significantly impact the overall look of the haircut.
Blow-dry the hair using a round brush to add volume and smoothness.
Focus on lifting the roots at the crown and smoothing the ends for a sleek finish.
For a more textured look, use a diffuser attachment on your blow dryer and scrunch the hair as you dry it.
Once dry, you can add curls or waves using a curling iron or flat iron for a more dynamic style.
Finish with a light mist of hairspray or a shine serum to add gloss and hold.
Tip: Encourage your client to use styling products like mousse or volumizing spray to maintain the shape and volume of the graduated bob at home.
10. Final Check and Adjustments
The final step is to check the overall haircut and make any last adjustments needed. This ensures that the graduated bob looks balanced and polished from every angle.
Have your client move their head from side to side and check how the hair falls naturally.
Look at the haircut from the front, sides, and back to ensure there are no uneven sections or harsh lines.
Make any necessary adjustments, whether it’s refining the graduation, softening the ends, or adjusting the length.
Tip: Always err on the side of caution when making final adjustments, as it’s easier to take off more hair than to fix a cut that’s too short.
Conclusion
Cutting a graduated bob requires a combination of technical skill and artistic vision. By following these step-by-step instructions, you can achieve a beautifully graduated bob that suits your client’s style and hair type. Remember, practice makes perfect, so take your time and focus on each step to ensure the best possible result. The graduated bob is a versatile and timeless hairstyle that can be customized to suit any client, making it a valuable skill in any hairstylist’s repertoire.